Everyone knows a dollop of sour cream elevates both sweet and savoury dishes, and is essential for many desserts. Then there’s cream cheese: Beautiful on a bagel, plus a cheesecake or carrot cake icing would be unimaginable without it. But Italians swear by the lighter taste of Mascarpone, while the French prefer the supremely versatile Crème Fraîche. Who are we to argue? Vive la différence.